Cognac: Cognac

Photo: Timothé Durand on Unsplash
Brandy from the Charente region in western France, the world's most famous grape spirit.
How it's made
Double distilled in copper Charentais pot stills and aged in French oak. VS is at least 2 years old, VSOP at least 4 and XO at least 10.
Mainly Ugni Blanc grapes make a light, acidic wine that is distilled twice in copper Charentais pot stills, the first pass making the 'brouillis' and the second the 'bonne chauffe'. By law all distillation must finish by 31 March after the harvest.
History
Dutch traders in the 1600s distilled the thin local wine so it would survive shipping, and found it improved in oak. Houses such as Martell (1715), Rémy Martin (1724) and Hennessy (1765) built the trade.
Ageing and label terms
Cognac ages in French oak, usually from Limousin or Tronçais. VS means at least 2 years, VSOP at least 4 and XO at least 10 years for the youngest brandy in the blend.
Styles
Light and fruity young blends for mixing, rounder VSOPs, and rich, nutty, complex XOs. The best crus are Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne; a blend of these two with at least half Grande Champagne is called Fine Champagne.
Rules and protected names
Cognac is a protected AOC. There are six growing areas: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires. Minimum strength is 40% ABV.
How to serve and classic cocktails
Sip older cognacs neat in a tulip glass; VS works with ginger ale or tonic. Classic cocktails: Sidecar, French 75 (the original recipe) and Vieux Carré.
With food
VSOP and XO go well with aged Comté, roasted nuts, foie gras and dark chocolate desserts.
Good to know
Here 'Champagne' refers to the chalky soils of the Cognac area and has nothing to do with sparkling wine. Most growers sell their eaux-de-vie to the big houses for blending.
Producers
- Hennessy
- Rémy Martin
- Martell
- Courvoisier
- Pierre Ferrand
Bottles to try
Rémy Martin VSOP
Ripe apricot, vanilla, liquorice and flowers.
Serve: Neat or in a Sidecar
Hennessy VS
Fresh and fruity: grape, toasted almond, vanilla and oak.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: At least 2 years in French oak (VS)
Hennessy was founded in 1765 by Richard Hennessy, an Irish officer who settled in Cognac, and is the largest cognac house. VS is a blend of many young eaux-de-vie, made for mixing.
Serve: With ginger ale, or in a Sidecar
Martell VSOP Aged in Red Barrels
Smooth and fruity: apricot, plum, vanilla and gentle spice.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: At least 4 years in French oak (VSOP)
Martell, founded in 1715 by Jean Martell from Jersey, is the oldest of the big cognac houses. Its house style is light and fruity, helped by distilling clear wines without the lees.
Serve: Neat or on ice
Courvoisier VSOP
Dried apricot, vanilla, toasted almond and soft spice.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: At least 4 years in French oak
The Courvoisier house is based in Jarnac on the Charente river and has long linked its name to Napoleon, using his silhouette on its bottles. A smooth, rounded VSOP for sipping or mixing.
Serve: Neat, on ice, or in a Sidecar
Martell Cordon Bleu
Rich and silky: violet, dried apricot, gingerbread, toasted nuts and sweet spice.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: XO-grade blend, French oak
Created by Édouard Martell in 1912 and still one of the best-known older cognacs. It uses a large share of eaux-de-vie from the Borderies, the smallest cognac cru, which gives its floral, nutty character.
Serve: Neat, at room temperature
Pierre Ferrand 1840 Original Formula
Bold and fruity: apricot, orange, vanilla and a spicy, punchy finish.
Strength: 45% · Age and cask: Young blend, French oak casks
Built to recreate the bolder, higher-strength cognac that 19th-century bartenders used, after research with cocktail historian David Wondrich. It is made to stand up in mixed drinks.
Serve: In a Sidecar, a Cognac Old Fashioned or a punch
Hennessy XO
Deep and rich: dried fig, dark chocolate, candied fruit, pepper and spicy oak.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: XO: blend of eaux-de-vie aged at least 10 years in French oak
Hennessy XO was first blended in 1870 for the family's friends, and is often named as the first cognac sold under the XO label. It is a blend of many eaux-de-vie from the four best crus.
Serve: Neat in a tulip glass, or with a single ice cube
Rémy Martin XO
Ripe plum, candied orange, jasmine, cinnamon and a long, smooth finish.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: XO: blend of eaux-de-vie aged at least 10 years in Limousin oak
A Fine Champagne cognac, meaning its grapes come only from Grande and Petite Champagne, with at least half from Grande Champagne. Rémy Martin distils on the lees, which adds richness.
Serve: Neat in a tulip glass after dinner
Hine Rare VSOP
Elegant and floral: apricot, vanilla, white flowers and a light touch of oak.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: At least 4 years (VSOP), French oak
A Fine Champagne cognac, blended only from Grande and Petite Champagne eaux-de-vie. The house in Jarnac was founded by Thomas Hine, a young Englishman from Dorset who settled in Cognac in the 1790s.
Serve: Neat, on ice, or in a Sidecar
Delamain Pale & Dry XO
Delicate and long: dried apricot, vanilla, flowers, a little leather and a dry, clean finish.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: XO, Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie aged for many years in old French oak
Delamain, in Jarnac, uses only Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie, buys them already aged from growers and finishes ageing them in its own cellars in old casks. No caramel or sugar is added, hence the pale colour and dry style.
Serve: Neat in a tulip glass
Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal
Smooth and round: toffee, baked bread, plum, vanilla and gentle spice.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: Fine Champagne cognac, aged in toasted French oak casks
Blended only from Grande and Petite Champagne eaux-de-vie, the two top crus of Cognac. The name recalls 1738, when King Louis XV gave the Rémy Martin family permission to plant new vineyards.
Serve: Neat, on ice, or in a Sidecar
Hennessy VSOP Privilège
Balanced: vanilla, toasted oak, cinnamon, clove and honey.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: VSOP (at least 4 years), French oak casks
Hennessy says the blend goes back to 1817, when the future King George IV ordered a 'very superior old pale' cognac from the house. It is blended from many eaux-de-vie from the main crus of Cognac.
Serve: On ice, with ginger ale, or in a Sidecar
Martell Blue Swift
Fruity and smooth: pear, apricot, vanilla, honey and sweet oak.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: VSOP-age eaux-de-vie, finished in Kentucky bourbon casks
Martell's eaux-de-vie are aged in French oak and then finished in casks that previously held bourbon. The swift in the name is the bird on Martell's emblem.
Serve: Neat, on ice or in a Sazerac
Courvoisier XO
Rich and layered: candied orange, crème brûlée, iris, dried fruit and spice.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: XO, youngest eau-de-vie at least 10 years in oak
A blend of eaux-de-vie from the Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and Borderies crus, aged in the house's cellars at Jarnac on the Charente.
Serve: Neat in a tulip glass
Frapin VSOP Grande Champagne
Floral and fruity: apricot, vine flowers, vanilla, light oak and a long, elegant finish.
Strength: 40% · Age and cask: At least 4 years, French oak
Frapin uses only grapes from its own estate in Grande Champagne, the top cru of Cognac, and distils them itself. The family has grown vines in the area for centuries.
Serve: Neat in a tulip glass
Also a wine region: Bordeaux wine guide.
More brandy regions
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