The Wine Reference🍷 SupportSichuan: Baijiu (strong aroma)
The cities of Yibin and Luzhou on the Yangtze in Sichuan are the home of strong aroma baijiu, the best-selling style in China.
How it's made
Grain is fermented in the solid state with a wheat qu starter in old mud-lined pits, then steam-distilled. The oldest pits, used without a break for centuries, are prized for their aroma.
Sorghum, alone or with rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn, is steamed, mixed with a wheat-based qu starter and packed into rectangular pits lined with mud. The mud carries bacteria that build the fruity ester ethyl caproate. After fermenting for weeks, the grain is steam-distilled and part of it goes back into the pit with fresh grain.
History
Distilling in Luzhou and Yibin goes back at least to the Ming dynasty; Luzhou Laojiao's National Cellar pits date to 1573 and have been in continuous use since. In the 20th century Wuliangye and Luzhou Laojiao became two of China's most famous brands.
Ageing and label terms
The new spirit rests for one to several years in clay jars before blending. Labels show the brand, aroma type and strength; age statements are rare.
Styles
Strong aroma (nongxiang) is fruity and rich; it accounts for most of the baijiu drunk in China. Single-grain styles come from Luzhou, multi-grain styles from Yibin.
Rules and protected names
Strong aroma baijiu is defined by Chinese national standards. Wuliangye and Luzhou Laojiao have geographical-indication protection. Most premium bottles are 52%, with lighter 38–42% versions too.
How to serve and classic cocktails
Served at room temperature in tiny glasses and drunk in one go after a toast. Outside China bartenders use it in small doses in sours and highballs.
With food
Made for spicy Sichuan food: mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork, hot pot and kung pao chicken; also good with roast meats.
Good to know
The pits are the heart of the style: the older the pit, the richer the spirit, and Luzhou's 1573 pits are a protected national cultural relic.
Producers
- Wuliangye
- Luzhou Laojiao
- Jiannanchun
- Shuijingfang
Bottles to try
Wuliangye Wuliangye 52
Ripe pineapple, pear and anise over sweet grain; powerful but round and long.
Strength: 52%
Made in Yibin from five grains: sorghum, rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn, the source of its name. It is one of China's two most famous baijiu brands, alongside Moutai.
Serve: Neat at room temperature in small glasses
Luzhou Laojiao Guojiao 1573
Intense tropical fruit, liquorice and toasted grain with a clean, sweet finish.
Strength: 52%
Named after the National Cellar pits in Luzhou, dug in 1573 and in continuous use ever since. The sorghum spirit ferments in these mud pits, which are protected as a national cultural relic.
Serve: Neat in small glasses with a Sichuan meal
More anise & others regions
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